It’s almost the end of April and the tropical storms are easing. Dragonflies hover in the breeze signalling the start of the dry weather and the cool winds blow from the south. It won’t be very long before the rain completely stops. The lush green grass starts to fade and die and the landscape will take on a golden, often smoky glow. Waterfalls become tiny trickles and wetlands shrink.
Don’t get me wrong, the Dry is a very lovely time of the year. Camping is easier (and cooler), 4WD tracks become accessible and places like Jim Jim Falls in Kakadu National Park are open. But it is also very busy – tourists dash to town and some of the special feeling of being here as a local is taken away.